After the repairs are made use a good Veneer plaster to finish the repaired area. With the type of plaster system you have installed in the residence you can repair all the areas using a perlite plaster to fill the holes as long as the Rock lath backer is in place if missing use most any type drywall board installed as backing. That way I am not just sitting there and waiting for spackle to dry. When I am doing prep work on a job and come across something like this I find that I can easily get it done the way I describe just by fitting it in with all the other little dings I am working on - a round robin sort of thing. The idea is to get the top layer of material to bond the 2 layers together, but not to get in between these 2 layers. You might have to counter-sink the screws so you don't crumble the material on top. If the 2 layers of wall are not flush against each other before you start filling with Durabond, put drywall screws around the area to hold the top layer against whatever the backing is. ![]() One more coat of Durabond should finish this nice and flat.Ħ. Again, make sure not to overfill the hole.ĥ. Use a spackle knife that is larger than the hole is. You want the Durabond stiff enough so that when you fill the rest of the hole it stays in place and does not run or bulge out of the hole. When the first batch of Durabond is dry, make a 2nd batch that is a little stiffer than the first. The Durabond will stick like glue to everything it touches and dries on, basically making the top and backing layers one piece.Ĥ. Let this dry for several hours or overnight. Using a 4-6" spackle knife I would push the Durabond into the hole and against the sides of the top layer material, taking care not to overfill the hole. ![]() If the surrounding top layer appears to stay flush against the backing layer, I would make a batch of USG Durabond 20 (easily available in many areas) with the consistency such that the mix will slowly drip off a large rubber spatula when turned upside down (I use a rubber cupped spatula and stainless steel mixing bowl to mix my USG Durabond and Easy Sand).ģ. THis is so you don't get an outward bow on the top surface.Ģ. Remove all the loose and cracking materials, using a shop vac to catch whatever materials you are digging out so the they don't get in between the top layer and the backing material. ![]() That certainly is not from the 1950s.īased on the size of the screw (almost full size) and the hole on my screen, and without see too much more cracking material other than that in the photo, I might do the following:ġ. KJ603, I am curious where that drywall screw came from in the first photo.
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